Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children do not want to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
